(Filettaro: Roman word which means the person who prepares cod fillets)
If you are a tourist this is one of the unmissable places in Rome!
In the center of Rome near the beautiful Campo dei Fiori square, in dei Giubbonari street you will find a little widening called Largo dei Librai.
This little and beautiful square is dominated by the Saint Barbara church, from which the famous “filettaro” takes its name. the church has been closed during the entire period of 900, it was deconsecrated and used as a warehouse by a Roman interior designer, till it was opened again and restored in 1982. Having a b&b near the old town center will allow you to easily reach this characteristic place.
The specialty of the house is the fried salted codfish (baccalà). It is not a typical restaurant, here you can eat cod fillets, chicory and anchovy salad (puntarelle con alici, a typical Roman salad), beans with fresh onions, no first or second courses “cooked”. These are all foods which came from the popular and poor Roman culture. It is a place outside of time, were you will found the authentic tastes of Rome near clothing stores and trinkets shops in Via dei Giubbonari. This place imitates the old Roman“fraschette”or taverns, where you could take your food from home and order only wine.Cod fillet is very tasty and it can become a perfect snack after walking for a lot of hours searching the treasures of Rome.
It is rigorously eaten on long and rustic tables with typical paper tablecloths, in spring or summer you will find the table seated in the opposite little square. It is the fast Roman snack before fast food were made! During all day and also late in the evening you will be able to eat tasty fried cod fillets, if you have a b&b or an apartment in Rome you can’t miss this place!
As the tradition says, fillets are served as a steak 10/15 cm long; they are passed in a butter of flour and water and fried in huge pans with boiling oil.
They can be served also in a paper cone take-away, a deliciousness beyond comparison, a traditional delight.
It is typical Roman family-run business, even if prices have risen (€ 4,50 take-away €5,00 seated) everyone should taste a cod fillet once in their life!